7 Easy Steps Of Growing Citrus Trees In Containers

7 Easy Steps Of Growing Citrus Trees In Containers

For thousands of years, gardeners have grown citrus in containers. Oranges, lemons, and limes were grown in many of the original glasshouses, or orangeries. To grow oranges, grapefruits, lemons, limes, or kumquats, you don't need a glasshouse or greenhouse, nor do you need to reside in a tropical region.

Citrus is a prized potted plant for any home because of its gorgeous and edible fruit as well as incredibly sweet blooms. You, too, may harvest these delicious goodies with a sunny window, right container, decent soilless potting mix, a little fertilizer, and a little hand at watering. Hope the full blog of growing citrus trees in containers will be helpful for you.

7 Easy Steps Of Growing Citrus Trees In Containers

10 Best Citrus Trees For Containers

Before starting growing citrus trees in containers, you should find the citrus types that will be suitable for your containers.

Mandarins

1. Mandarins

Clementines and tangerines are not all mandarin oranges, yet they are both types of mandarin oranges. The fruits are smaller than regular oranges, are normally seedless or have fewer seeds, have a pleasant flavor, and are easy to peel. Because of their modest length of 10-12 feet, they can easily be kept in containers.

Mandarins thrive in full sun and mild temperatures. If you live in a cold area, protect your plants from cold drafts and freezing temperatures in the winter.

Clementine oranges are a cross between mandarins and tangerines. With no seeds, the taste is sweeter and the fruit is more luscious. Here's how to grow them.

Tangerines, on the other hand, are mandarin hybrids. They have a sweet flavor, but are tangier than clementines.

Kumquats

2. Kumquats

Kumquats bear fruit that resembles oranges but is considerably smaller and spherical or oval in shape. Another unique feature of kumquats is that you don't have to peel them to consume them. The skin is sweet and the pulp is sour.

Because these citrus trees are inherently short, there's no need to choose a type that grows on dwarf rootstock. Kumquats thrive in hot summers and chilly fall and winter evenings. The round kumquats, in particular, are hardy down to 10 F (-12 C) for a long time. Bring this fruit tree indoors in the winter if you live in a really cold climate.

The fruit of ‘Fukushu' is sweeter than normal, and the tree is thornless.

The kumquat variety ‘Meiwa' is the sweetest and least seedy. Trees have almost no thorns.The ‘Tavares Limequat' is a hybrid of the kumquat and the Mexican lime. The tree has a pleasing appearance and is small (less than 6 feet tall at maturity).

Sweet Limes

3. Sweet Limes

In Asia, the Indian subcontinent, and the Middle East, sweet lime is a popular citrus cultivar. Its fragrant, juicy, sweet, and non-acidic fruits are widely used to make fresh juices. In USDA Zones 9-11 or any other frost-free location, this small tree can be cultivated on the ground.

It's also known as Indian sweet lime, Palestine sweet lime, or Mausambi, and it doesn't grow very tall, making it an ideal citrus tree for container planting.

It's a self-pollinating tree, like other citruses.

It prefers a warm climate with plenty of sunshine. It grows similarly to orange trees.

Lemons

4. Lemons

Lemons are an excellent choice for both hot and cool summers. They like a warm subtropical temperature and coastal locations, and they yield fruit all year. It's one of the best container citrus trees!

Lemon trees are usually only a few feet tall. If you reside in a mild-winter climate, you can grow any kind you desire.

The ideal cultivar for temperate zone container gardeners is ‘Improved Meyer.' It's a disease-free alternative to normal Meyer lemons. Due to the fact that it is a lemon-orange hybrid, the fruit is sweeter and has a thinner skin. It may be moved indoors without reducing fruit output during the winter.

Both ‘Sungold' and ‘Variegated Pink' have variegated green and yellow leaves.

Orange

5. Orange

Summer heat is required for oranges to produce their sweet yet bitter fruit. Coastal places and northern climes with warm summers are not good for them.

The navel orange varieties ‘Washington' and ‘Robertson' are almost identical. Two weeks earlier than ‘Washington,' ‘Robertson' bears fruit. Your orange harvest will be extended if you grow one of each.

‘Tarocco' is red-fleshed blood orange with a rich flavour and raspberry overtones. It's a fantastic espalier.

The skin of the ‘Trovita' orange is thinner than that of navel oranges, and it lacks a navel. It also needs less heat than other orange varieties.

Dwarf Bearss Seedless Lime

6. Dwarf Bearss Seedless Lime

The Dwarf Bearss Seedless Lime is another excellent citrus fruit to grow in containers. The fruits grow larger and mature throughout the winter and early spring.

It is well-known for making an excellent patio and container plant, and its dark-green foliage is very appealing. The fruit can be used in both beverages and cookery. It's popular because it's seedless and has a pleasant taste.

USDA Zones 9-11 are ideal for this tree. In pots, it can grow to be 3-6 feet tall.

Australian Finger Lime

7. Australian Finger Lime

The Australian Finger Lime is also citrus-related, and it's most known for producing such an unusual-looking fruit. In the wild, it can reach a height of 20 feet, but in a container, it only grows to about 4-7 feet tall.

The lime is rectangular and lengthy, resembling a finger, which is how it got its name. Citrus beverages, sauces, marmalades, sauces, and chutneys are all delicious with it.

This unusual plant can survive in harsher conditions and is resistant to deer and birds. The finger-shaped lime trees perform best outside in USDA Zones 8 to 11 and indoors in Zones 4 to 11 in pots.

Kaffir

8. Kaffir

Kieffer Lime, Kaffir Lime, and Makrut Lime are known for their tanginess and use in Indonesian, Thai, and Cambodian cuisines. In a pot, the plant can reach a height of 2-5 feet.

The fruit is dark green in colour with a rough texture and a powerful aroma. It is commonly available in the size of a western lime.

This citrus shrub may be grown in containers, making it ideal for home chefs and urban gardeners.

In USDA Zones 9-10, this plant does well all year.

Wekiwa Tangelo

9. Wekiwa Tangelo

Though it shares the same name as the Minneola Tangelo, this one looks more like a pink grapefruit. It can reach a height of 3-6 feet. It's one of the best container citrus trees! The flavour is similar to tangerine with a slight grapefruit undertone.

Wekiwa's juice is sweet and popular, and this hybrid thrives in containers. USDA Zones 8-10 are ideal for citrus trees.

Yuzu

10. Yuzu

The Yuzu, also known as the Japanese Citron, is prized for its acidity and fragrance, as well as its ability to keep flavour while cooking. In pots, it can reach a height of 4-6 feet.

The fruit is dark yellow in colour and irregular in texture.

This prickly shrub is extremely cold-hardy, surviving in temperatures as low as 5-10°F (-15-12°C). USDA Zone 8 is suitable for this long-thorned tree.

Steps Of Growing Citrus Trees In Containers

Select The Right Container

1. Select The Right Container

When planting a young citrus tree, start with a small container because it will be easier to maintain optimum soil moisture in a small container than in a large container. A young tree with a small root system may rot and die if the soil in a large container becomes too damp. To begin, an 8-inch-diameter pot will be enough for a new citrus tree. A 10 to 12-inch diameter container is required for two to three-year-old trees.

For long-term growth, you'll need a 16 to 20-gallon container or a half whiskey barrel-sized container.

Choose containers made of plastic, terra cotta, or wood. Make that they have enough drainage holes. Plastic containers are the lightest and most convenient to move indoors and out as the seasons change. When the plants are cultivated indoors as houseplants, however, the glazed terra cotta planters are more appealing.

Soil

2. Soil

Citrus plants like evenly damp soil that is never waterlogged. It's a recipe for disaster if the soil stays too dry or too wet. Commercial potting mixes designated for cactus, palms, and citrus have a nice balance of chemicals that keep moisture in the soil while allowing it to drain freely and rapidly. To help keep nutrients available, combine extra organic matter* with earthworm castings.

Because citrus roots require air, planting depth is critical. The base of the tree trunk, where it begins to flare out, should always be slightly visible. Firm the soil beneath the plants while replanting so you can precisely assess the planting level. Fill your container halfway with beautiful mulch, pebbles, or moss, leaving enough room at the top for watering. Pennington UltraGreen Plant Starter with Vitamin B1 gives your citrus a post-planting boost by preventing transplant shock and delivering unique micronutrients that help roots establish.

Planting

3. Planting

Determine the graft union's location. This is a little bump or scar that appears about 4″ to 8″ above the root ball where the fruit variety was grafted on the rootstock. Make sure the graft union is above the soil line while transplanting. Any new green shoots that emerge below this point should be removed as soon as possible. These rootstock suckers will deplete the tree's resources while failing to produce the fruit you expect from the variety.

Light And Temperature

4. Light And Temperature

Citrus trees require 8 hours of sunlight every day and thrive in a sunny, wind-free environment. Citrus trees are also frost-sensitive, and in cold weather, they must be sheltered or relocated inside to a covered space. The cold-hardiest trees are kumquat and mandarin, followed by grapefruit and orange.

Lemon and lime trees, on the other hand, are the most frost-sensitive. If your winter nighttime temps are frequently below 35 degrees F, you'll need to bring the citrus indoors for the winter to protect it from frost and provide it with additional grow lights.

If the temperature around the tree is only occasionally frigid, cover it with frost cloth or use incandescent lights (not LED) to warm the air around it. If the temperature around the tree is only occasionally frigid, cover it with frost cloth or use incandescent lights (not LED) to warm the air around it.

Watering

5. Watering

Citrus roots thrive in damp, but not soggy, environments. Citrus will require different watering requirements when grown in containers since the roots will dry up more quickly. You can use a moisture meter to determine when it's time to water. The surface of the soil may feel dry; test it by placing the meter closer to the roots. Thoroughly water until the water starts to run out of the drain holes.

Containers dry out quickly during the hottest months of the year, so you may need to water them several times per week. You will need to water much less in the cooler months. Pay attention to the surrounding vegetation.

Wilted leaves that perk up after being watered are an indication of roots that have been let to dry out too much. More water should be consumed. If your leaves are yellowed or curled after watering, you may be watering them too much. Reduce your watering frequency.

Fertilizer

6. Fertilizer

Regular applications of a balanced fertilizer help citrus trees. That being said, timing is crucial: Feed your citrus when it is actively growing and stop feeding throughout the winter. As late summer approaches, we also recommend lowering or eliminating fertilizer to allow root and foliage growth to harden off.

Excess nutrients, especially in the root system, can induce weak or mushy growth when the days decrease in late fall, leading to root disease. Once fresh growth appears in late winter, feeding can be resumed. Use an organic or granular synthetic fertilizer with a delayed release. Smaller amounts of either should be added to the water more frequently than a single injection of a higher concentration. Instead of using the whole concentration once a month, we utilize a quarter of it once a week.

Iron chlorosis, or the whitening of immature leaves, affects several citrus species. During the winter, when growth is slow and temperatures are cool, this is common.

7. Pruning

Pruning citrus plants in containers is usually only required on a seasonal basis to help them maintain their shape. A branch, sometimes known as a lead, may frequently stretch out or rise, giving the plant an ugly form; this branch can be clipped down. Furthermore, some strategic pruning when plants are young can aid in the development of a full form as the plant matures. We propose a strong, multi-­stemmed plant that will produce a lot of fruit.

While it's fine to thin fruit or stake branches, don't over prune or you'll end up with a smaller harvest. Keep in mind that the blossom bud for the following season's harvest is typically formed on last summer's growth, and over-pruning might reduce fruit yield. As a result, the optimal time to prune, if at all, is shortly after the fruit has been plucked. Most plants, on the other hand, like to be left alone and will produce fruit even if they are neglected.

Care For Winter

When the temperature drops below 30 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter, bring citrus indoors. In the spring and fall, gradually transition the trees to an indoor/outdoor setting by bringing them in and out for one week. To maintain the humidity high during the dry months, place potted plants in a sunny south-facing window, limit watering, and consider using a humidifier or other houseplants. Protect trees left outside in warm winter climes from frost using Christmas lights, blankets, or burlap.

Harvesting

Harvesting

Many citrus plants blossom indoors during the chilly months of late fall and early winter, and fruit in late winter and early spring. Fruit can be picked at any time after it has ripened—that is after the green fruit has turned a darker hue (unless it is a lime). Leave citrus on the tree for ornamental purposes if you like. Citrus trees not only give a constant supply of fresh fruit, but they also make lovely houseplants with fragrant blossoms.

Pests And Disease

If the roots are brown and come apart easily when you take the plant out of its container, it's probably dead.

Apply more fertilizer to the plant if the roots look to be healthy. Yellow or light-coloured leaves that drop are common in plants that are grown cool—or even cold. Once the temperature rises, this will change.

The most frequent citrus pests are scale insects, mealybugs, and spider mites. On plants, scale insects appear as brown lumps and black sooty mould. Mealybugs produce a cottony white mass at the base of leaf stems or on the undersides of leaves, and black sooty mould can also be found on leaves. In hot, dry weather, spider mites, which form light pinpricks on leaves, can be a concern. With a magnifying glass, examine the undersides of the leaves. Plant webbing may occur as spider-mite populations increase.

When it comes to dealing with pests, perseverance is crucial. We recommend introducing a predator for mealybugs: the Australian lady beetle (Cryptaolaemus montrouzieri). The simplest way to get rid of spider mites is to squirt cold water on the underside of the leaves every day until they're gone. For all three pests, you might use Neem oil.

Conclusion

What's not to like about year-round greenery, sweet-smelling blooms, and delectable fruit? If you follow the steps of Growing citrus trees in containers perfectly, hope you will get a good result. Feel free to leave a comment if you run into any problems or have any inquiries.

I trust you enjoyed this article on the 7 Easy Steps Of Growing Citrus Trees In Containers. Please stay tuned for more blog posts to come shortly. Take care!

JeannetteZ

 

 

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