Simple Guide To Growing Apricot Trees In Pots

Simple Guide To Growing Apricot Trees In Pots

Apricots are one of those lovely trees that are self-fruitful, meaning they produce fruit without the need for pollination. Keep in mind some key apricot tree facts as you choose a cultivar: these early bloomers can be harmed by frost in some areas, so choose a sturdy type and plant where the tree will be protected from sudden cold snaps. In addition, apricots require at least 700 to 1,000 hours of chilling time to set fruit.

Simple Guide To Growing Apricot Trees In Pots

History

Apricots are a fruit that has been grown and cultivated in China for thousands of years.

Silk Road routes were utilized to transport the fruit to Persia, Syria, Greece, Spain, and beyond. In the 18th century, Spanish immigrants brought the fruits to California.

The fruits were supposed to have originated in Armenia by the ancient Greeks and many followed them. Gardeners and scientists believed this for a few thousand years, prompting botanists to give apricots the botanical name P. armeniaca.

The Spanish phrase for this golden fruit, “albaricoque,” has always appealed to me. It's so much fun to say! Its origins can be traced to the Arabic term “al-barqq,” which means “plum.”

While the leading exporters of these fruits shift from year to year, Turkey, Iran, Uzbekistan, Italy, Algeria, Spain, Pakistan, and France are perennial challengers.

Nutrition Fact Of Apricots

Nutrition Fact Of Apricots

Just 2 fresh apricots (70 grams) provide:

  • Calories: 34
  • Carbs: 8 grams
  • Protein: 1 gram
  • Fat: 0.27 grams
  • Fiber: 1.5 grams
  • Vitamin A: 8% of the Daily Value (DV)
  • Vitamin C: 8% of the DV
  • Vitamin E: 4% of the DV
  • Potassium: 4% of the DV

Note: Trusted Source From FoodData Central

Types Of Apricot

Based on where you live, how much area you have available, and other considerations, there is an incredible variety of apricot varieties to choose from.

Here are some of my personal favourites:

Wenatchee Apricot

Wenatchee Apricot

Do you enjoy huge fruits that make excellent preserving and drying candidates? Do you live in a stormy area? Then the ‘Wenatchee' variety is for you.

This semi-dwarf tree grows 12 to 18 feet tall with a spread of 15 to 20 feet and enjoys the rain.

‘Wenatchee', sometimes known as ‘Wenatchee Moorpark,' is hardy in Zones 5 through 9. It requires 700 chill hours below 45°F. The yellow skin and flesh of the fruits are significant and tangy-sweet.

While it's self-pollinating, a partner like ‘Puget Gold,' which you can learn more about in our guide to the best cold-resistant apricots,' may produce twice as much fruit.

Dwarf Blenheim Apricot

Look no farther than this semi-dwarf ‘Blenheim' variety for rich, sweet, slightly tangy fruit that is ideal for eating right off the branch.

For hundreds of years, ‘Blenheim' has pleased taste buds all across the world, and now you can grow this semi-dwarf type in a container or your yard.

This tree can reach a height of 10 to 15 feet and a spread of eight to 12 feet, but you can cut it back to eight to ten feet if you want.

Dwarf ‘Blenheim' is hardy in Zones 4 through 9 and requires 400 chill hours to blossom. It blooms a little later than regular apricots, allowing the buds to avoid late frosts.

It produces fruit even if there isn't a second tree of a different kind nearby.

Golden Sweet Apricot

Golden Sweet Apricot

This one is for all of you who have a sweet craving. ‘Golden Sweet' is one of the sweetest, firmest, and most luscious apricots you can grow.

In the summer, eat it fresh off the tree, or dry it to enjoy in the winter to remind you of summer's bounty.

‘Golden Sweet' is a semi-dwarf cultivar that grows 12 to 18 feet tall with a comparable spread in Zones 5 through 8. It takes 400 to 500 hours to chill.

The skin is golden in colour, with a hint of blush on the sun-facing sides.

Steps Of Growing Apricot Trees

Time To Plant

Apricots flower early; therefore, the blossoms are susceptible to frost, although being entirely hardy. They do best when planted against warm, sheltered south, south-west, or west-facing wall, which also aids in fruit ripening.

If you choose an appropriate ‘cultivar,' apricots can be grown as free-standing (pyramid) trees or bush trees with a clear stem of 75cm (212ft) in milder climates and a warm, extremely sheltered, sunny area.

They grow best undercover in an unheated greenhouse, either trained as a fan in a greenhouse border or a big container in colder climates.

Apricots grow best in deep, fertile, moist yet well-drained, and somewhat alkaline. In poor, shallow soil, they will struggle. To promote moisture retention in light, sandy soil, mix organic matter such as garden compost or well-rotted manure into the planting area.

If you want to grow an apricot as a fan, keep in mind that it will need 3.5–5m (11–16ft) of wall space and 2–2.5m (612–8ft) in height.

Compact types can be grown in big containers in a hot, sunny location, but they do best in an unheated greenhouse overwintering.

Soil Requirements

Soil Requirements

Preparing your soil before planting will increase your plant's performance and promote healthy, vigorous growth. It's a good idea to have your soil analyzed to see if any critical minerals or nutrients are missing. This can be done with one of our digital meters or through your county extension office.

Soil preparation replaces essential minerals and nutrients while loosening and breaking up compacted soil.

Breaking up and loosening compacted soils and adding nutrients via fertilizers or organic matter.

When the ground is not excessively wet or frozen, soil preparation can be done at any time. Even if the weather is cold, your trees can be planted. If a hard frost is a forecast, it is best to wait until more moderate temperatures before planting. Planting is generally acceptable as long as the soil is workable.

When roots are spread out, they grow faster.

Dig the hole deep and wide enough to allow the root system to expand freely. Keep the dirt in a separate pile so that you may use it towards the bottom of the hole, where it will be most effective.

Mix dehydrated cow dung, garden compost, or peat moss (up to ⅓ concentration) into your topsoil pile to loosen the soil. If you buy peat moss, make sure it's either baled sphagnum or granular peat. You can also include our Coco-Fiber Potting Medium or 2 or more inches of organic material into the existing soil by working it in evenly.

Grass clippings and shredded leaves from your lawn can provide you with excellent organic materials. The grass and leaves will not only break down to offer soil nutrients, but they will also help loosen the soil. These can be collected in the fall and planted in the spring.

Propagation

Like most other fruit and nut trees in the Rosaceae family, Apricots are best propagated via budding and grafting at professional nurseries.

Seeds do not grow in the same way as the parent plant. And because some of the best fruiting apricots don't root well from cuttings, they must be grafted onto another apricot, plum, or peach rootstocks, some of which have been developed to help protect the trees from pests and diseases such as root-knot nematodes and crown gall.

We recommend purchasing the best tree for your growth zone from your local nursery or an online purveyor because most home gardeners aren't well trained in the science of budding and grafting.

If you want more fruit, consider two types that bloom simultaneously. You might be able to grow a plant from seed, which would be an excellent activity to do with children. However, if you're looking for a large harvest of high-quality fruit cultivated at home, this isn't the way to go.

Watering

Watering

Water newly planted trees frequently in their first spring and summer and before any droughts, when established trees may require additional watering. This is especially crucial when the fruit begins to swell.

Feed with a high potassium general fertilizer, such as Vitax Q4, in late winter. Spread two handfuls per square metre/yard around bare-root trees and two and a half handfuls around grass-grown trees.

To assist keep moisture in the soil, apply a 5cm (2in) layer of well-rotted manure around the root region in March and early April. This will assist in reducing drought stress, especially when the fruit is swelling in the early to mid-summer.

Keeping Blossoms Safe

Cover trees with horticultural fleece or clear polythene overnight, supported by bamboo canes, to protect blossoms from frost. However, make sure the covering does not come into contact with the blooms and remove it throughout the day to allow sunshine and pollinating insects to pass through.

Only fan-trained or containerized trees are suitable for covering.

Hand-Pollinating

Apricots are self-fertile, but they flower early in the spring when few pollinating insects are around, necessitating hand-pollination to ensure a good crop. Hand-pollination is required for trees planted undercover.

Use a soft artist's paintbrush or a cotton-wool bud to hand-pollinate for several days, especially around noon in dry, sunny conditions. Allow plenty of time for the blossoms to dry out before dark, but lightly spritz the tree with water to ensure the pollen sticks.

Humidity and Temperature

Apricots blossom early in the spring, site selection is critical for frost management. Apricots should be planted in elevation regions with sufficient airflow, avoiding low spots. Warm air rises as the temperature drops, whereas cold air settles at lower elevations. The area can become a microclimate, and an artificial frost zone can be created. Otherwise, the apricot tree can be grown in Zones 5-8 and thrives and produces fruit in climates with slight variation in winter and spring temperatures.

Apricot Thinning

Apricots don't require any fruit thinning. Fruit sets, on the other hand, can be extraordinary at times. If there is a need for thinning, it should be done in stages. When the fruit reaches cherry size in late spring, begin thinning and remove any misshaped or growing towards the wall first. Then, when the fruits swell in early summer, thin pairs and clusters so that those remaining to ripen are spaced 5–8cm (2–3in) apart.

Composting Should Be Considered

Composting is an excellent approach to improving your garden's soil. Allowing kitchen and yard vegetative waste to break down results in highly nutritious soil for your plants. Three compost piles are excellent if you have a broad region where you can enable this decomposition to take place over time.

One to pour your raw leftovers into, one to “cook” the scraps, and one to gather excellent compost will be required. Each year, rotate the compost piles so that you always have one containing compost, often known as “black gold” in the gardening world, ready to harvest. A twin compost outdoor tumbler will get you off to an excellent start if you are short on space or need something more compact.

Irrigation

Irrigate your apricots once a week after they've established themselves – usually one year after planting – and make sure the soil doesn't dry out two to three inches down. At least twice a week, inspect the soil.

Because containers dry out faster than the ground, you may need to water container-grown trees more regularly.

Pruning

Pruning

When your trees are dormant, it's the greatest time to prune them. When the blossoms begin to open, I like to clip mine in late winter or early spring before new leaves grow.

This allows plants to heal from pruning wounds as growth resumes in the spring, rather than allowing the wounds to remain open all winter, allowing opportunistic pests or diseases to take advantage of the opportunity.

Start pruning with the branches that are dead, broken, or infected. Using clean pruning shears, cut them off. This is also an excellent opportunity to remove any suckers that have sprouted around the base of the trunk.

Then, trim any branches that are crossing or developing inward. Crossing branches can brush against one another, causing sores in the bark to develop, allowing pests or disease germs to enter.

Finally, cut three or four branches to keep the tree's shape by shortening them.

Pruning should be done just above outward-facing buds—cut vertical branches at a 45-degree angle and horizontal branches at a 90-degree angle.

Cuts like these allow rainwater to drain off the wound, lessening the likelihood of the moisture remaining on the wound and rotting it.

Just 10 to 15% of the branches should be removed in any given year.

Once your apricot blossoms have been pollinated and the fruits have reached a diameter of about one inch, thin them to one every three to four inches.

This frees up the tree's resources to focus on developing the remaining fruits into larger, sweeter treats for you to enjoy!

You may need to trim more aggressively if you're cultivating dwarf kinds, which are smaller and less capable of bearing huge amounts of fruit.

Harvesting

Harvesting

If you've found the perfect spot for your apricot tree to produce fruit, it's time to harvest when the fruit has a lovely blush but is still firm to the touch. Handle the fruits gently and remove them off the tree with the stem intact. Fresh ripe apricots are preferable but can also be cooked in various ways. They are better canned than frozen uncooked, so peel the fruit beforehand if freezing is needed.

Pests and Disease

Pests and Disease

Apricots are vulnerable to a wide range of pests and illnesses. Here are a few essential concerns to keep an eye on.

  • Cervids, aphids, and peach twig borers are the most prevalent pests that might harm your apricot plants. Other creatures may also visit you.
  • These voracious creatures prefer sweet, ripe, and juicy fruits. If you don't get to the fruits first, squirrels and birds will eat your harvest faster than you can pick it.
  • Bird netting can help keep birds away while making it more difficult for squirrels to get the fruit, but if you know there are squirrels in your yard, picking the fruits before they turn soft and ripe is your best choice. I'll get to that in a minute!
  • Use caution when using netting because birds can become tangled and entangled in it, resulting in death or injury.
  • You can also use a squirrel, chipmunk, and rodent repellent, such as this one from Bonide, which can be found in Arbico Organics.
  • On a smaller scale, you may have to deal with mealy plum aphids, Hyalopterus pruni. These green aphids measure between one and two millimetres in length and are covered in a yellowish, mealy-looking wax.
  • They suck the juice from the plants they infest, similar to other aphids, causing stunted growth and an overall lack of vigour.
  • If you see these strange-looking aphids, spray them off with a strong stream of water from the hose, then spray the tree with a neem oil-based spray.
  • Reapply every five to seven days until no new mealy plum aphids are visible on your apricot.
  • If any of the illnesses listed below show up on your apricot trees, it's never a good indication.
  • However, if you intervene early enough, you may be able to save your tree, or at the very least, prevent the disease from spreading to other plants in your yard or garden.
  • Coryneum blight, gummosis, and perennial canker are the most important diseases to watch for. Let's go over them quickly.

Conclusion

It's a delightful treat for all of your patients, loving care to eat these sweet and juicy small nibbles from off your apricot tree. Apricot plants are a great way to get started with fruiting trees in your home orchard or kitchen garden. The most challenging aspect is picking how many and where to plant your apricot trees because they are simple to grow and care for.

I trust you enjoyed this article on the Simple Guide To Growing Apricot Trees In Pots. Please stay tuned for more blog posts to come shortly. Take care!

JeannetteZ

 

 

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